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I am using my first set of "regular" Waverly's and it is time to finalize this guitar and prep it for finishing.

Is there any trick to getting the bushings out? They seem to be stuck in there really good.

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

oops, Have you tried knocking them thru from the back side? Carefully

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Tickle your guitar daily, and it'll tickle you back.

Well... that was what I was going to do, but whacking on my headstock with a hammer and dowel rod seemed like one of those ideas that I might live to regret.

That is why I thought I would ask.

I suppose if I can get them up a little I can probably get a pair of fret pullers under the edges to pull them up, but again... I was just looking for ideas.

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

I think I have done this before and just try tapping to get it to just loosen up like you said until you can get something under the lip or at least get ahold of it with something. Well at least you know you got a good fit.

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Tickle your guitar daily, and it'll tickle you back.

Uhhh, Brock, pardon the question...Why are the bushings in before finishing?
I would use a steel drift and tap out from the back. Then chamfer the holes on the peghead face a bit so that you can press them back in after the finish work is complete. Be very careful rocking a fret puller on the face of your peghead...maybe get a thin veneer strip to act as a protective caul if you go for this method

On another note: I'll be wrapping up your redwood tops and shipping them tomorrow.

Brock: Go to Vances Shooter's Supply and pick up a 25 lb back of shot gun shot. Then lay the head stock on the bag and tap away. The shot will provide plenty of support for the headstock and the bag will give way as the bushings come out. [Use the same bag to lay the neck on while fretting too].

I had a local machinist turn an aluminum rod [with two steps in it]that fits the bushing ID hole precisly and the other step fits the wood hole. Then tap them out from the back. The aluminum is softer than the bushing so it won't mar the bushing. Steel drift pins will work but if it isn't the exact size of the hole there is a minute posibility to marr the bushing.

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tim...
http://www.mcknightguitars.com

[QUOTE=HankMauel] Uhhh, Brock, pardon the question...Why are the bushings in before finishing?
I would use a steel drift and tap out from the back. Then chamfer the holes on the peghead face a bit so that you can press them back in after the finish work is complete. Be very careful rocking a fret puller on the face of your peghead...maybe get a thin veneer strip to act as a protective caul if you go for this method

On another note: I'll be wrapping up your redwood tops and shipping them tomorrow.[/QUOTE]


You are going to run in horror when I tell you this...

Not only are my bushings on, but my neck is glued and I briefly bolt the bridge onto the guitar. Then I take the whole thing apart, go over it with a magnifying glass to fill any gaps I find, and prep it for finish.

It was just the way I learned.... I know it is not the "norm".

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

[QUOTE=Tim McKnight] Brock: Go to Vances Shooter's Supply and pick up a 25 lb back of shot gun shot. Then lay the head stock on the bag and tap away. The shot will provide plenty of support for the headstock and the bag will give way as the bushings come out. [Use the same bag to lay the neck on while fretting too].

I had a local machinist turn an aluminum rod [with two steps in it]that fits the bushing ID hole precisly and the other step fits the wood hole. Then tap them out from the back. The aluminum is softer than the bushing so it won't mar the bushing. Steel drift pins will work but if it isn't the exact size of the hole there is a minute posibility to marr the bushing.[/QUOTE]


Good idea on the shot. I have already been to Vances... before I got into this guitar building thing they used to see a lot of me.   

If you have any good names of machine shops locally drop me an email would you? I have a few simple tools I am thinking about getting made up.Brock Poling38462.8356481481

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

You are going to run in horror when I tell you this...

Not only are my bushings on, but my neck is glued and I briefly bolt the bridge onto the guitar. Then I take the whole thing apart, go over it with a magnifying glass to fill any gaps I find, and prep it for finish.


Uhhh...do you remove the glued in neck, too, before finishing or lacquer the entire assembled unit, sans bridge?

It was just the way I learned.... I know it is not the "norm".

[/QUOTE] HankMauel38462.839212963

Brock...

Take a 1/4" rod (I use a brass one)..

From the front rock the bushing very slightly to open it up just a little, then come in from the back and tap them out. I just removed a set to re-polish a headstock and had no issues getting them out at all. Just have to do nice and slow.

-Paul-

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-Paul-

Patriot Guitars

[QUOTE=HankMauel]

Uhhh...do you remove the glued in neck, too, before finishing or lacquer the entire assembled unit, sans bridge?

[/QUOTE]

Nope. The whole thing gets finished as a unit. I take the bridge off though.    Brock Poling38462.8577430556

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

That's the way I did my first few but it sure easier to finish seperately I think now.

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Tickle your guitar daily, and it'll tickle you back.

2005-04-20_210533_Tuner_Bushing_Tool.doc

Broc:
This is a generic drawing of the tool that I described. The small end fits the ID of the bushing. The larger diameter fits the hole bored in the peghead. It is inserted from the back side and then just tap it out with a hammer.

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tim...
http://www.mcknightguitars.com

I can do some machining as long as it's simple. The only reason I say this is it has to be quick because I'm doing it at work. In typical fashion, I've got my lathe and mill at home torn to pieces right now.

With my shot bag, a wood dowel and a tack hammer those bad boys tapped right out without any fuss....

Thanks for the ideas.

I was just worried about whacking the back side of the head stock with a hammer.

All is well though.

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

Tim, don't you step drill the headstock? The holes should be a snug 1/4", same as the bushings'....

Brock, just use an old 1/4' drill bit; insert it from the back(backwards), cock it a bit to one side, and one neat shot with a hammer will do to loosen it. Pull it the rest of the way out from the top with side cutters....

Man, I know this is the way you learned, and I used to do this with mandolins, too, but do yourself a favor and stop hurting oyurself <g> Build the guitar, finish it, then string it up. Mario38463.0213773148

Mario: Yes, I use the StewMac step drill and ream the 1/4" hole a few thousanth's over so there is a teeny ledge on the bushing to tap on with the stepped punch.

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tim...
http://www.mcknightguitars.com

You should consider leaving that hole tighter than that; the tuner's shaft should be a light push-fit. It helps everything, including machine longevity if the shaft is supported.

Of course, you can do as you wish, but this is how open gear tuners are meant to be installed...

Brock,
The way I get bushings out that are "stuck" is to insert a screw driver that has a rubber paded shaft. Then I rock the screw driver in a circular motion. It sort of rolls around in the bushing with slight pressure. This momentum causes the bushing to losen and also move out. Make sure the screw driver is well padded and don't use too much pressure ( I use an electricians screw driver for this). It works every time and I have never ruined a bushing or the hole. just be careful.

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Dave Bland

remember...

"If it doesn't play in tune...it's just pretty wood"

[QUOTE=Mario] You should consider leaving that hole tighter than that; the tuner's shaft should be a light push-fit. It helps everything, including machine longevity if the shaft is supported.

Of course, you can do as you wish, but this is how open gear tuners are meant to be installed...[/QUOTE]

Mario:
I originally left them a snug fit but thought the added post drag would cause premature wear to the gears. That led me to believe that relieving the hole a few thou would still support the shaft while reducing the post / gear drag. But, I will give your suggestion a try. Thanks...

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tim...
http://www.mcknightguitars.com

Brock--Do like the ancient Egyptians did. (When they removed their Waverlies.) Cover the back of the tuner hole. Drop a dried pea in the hole. Soak with water. When the pea expands, it will push out the bushing.

Or, or- fill w/ water, (no pea needed) and stick in freezer. The water will freeze, expand, and push out the bushing. You might want to remove the neck first.

Like that?

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From Nacogdoches...the oldest town in Texas.

http://www.stephenkinnaird.com

Yeah, those are good "alternatives".   

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

Howdy...

I've been lurking and finally wanted to chime in on something.

I recently had this same situation on a finished guitar. Being a tool minimalist, I tried to think what would get the job done safely with something I would have on hand. I ruled out any metal tools because I didn't want to chance any bad scratches/dings.

I found a dowel rod that was larger in diameter than the hole. Got out my knife and whittled the end down to where it fit perfectly in the hole. The end result of the dowel rod was very similar to the tuner bushing tool shown above, but not as crisp looking nor scientific.

One hand supporting the head and covering the intended bushing from flying who knows where, put the rod in the other side and applied increasing pressure and voila. Worked like a champ.

This place really is a treasure trove of great info.

Thanks.

Shane.

[QUOTE=ShaneE.] Howdy...

I've been lurking and finally wanted to chime in on something. Shane.[/QUOTE]

Shane, welcome to the OLF. Glad you have decided to delurk and join us. I've learned so much from this bunch that I doubt I can ever repay the debt. Always good to see new members and new input.

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Don Atwood
Arlington, VA